In the 18th and early 19th century North American fur trade, there were two primary companies involved: The North West Company and The Hudson Bay Company.

Both companies had trading posts spread across Canada. Fort William, situated in Ontario, Canada, served as the ‘inland headquarters’ of the predominantly Scottish-run North West Company, which stood as a rival to the better-known Hudson’s Bay Company headquartered in Montreal.

These Scottish merchants were actively importing a diverse range of European goods to trade with the indigenous populations across northern North America in exchange for furs.

The furs, including beaver for hats and others for trim, were then shipped back and auctioned off throughout Europe, influenced by the market conditions impacted by the ongoing conflict with Napoleon. One of these European trade goods being imported were ‘foxtail feathers’ – something that until recently was a bit of a mystery. 

After some research and piecing things together ( comparing period inventories and price of foxtail feathers vs. other (ostrich) feathers, looking at period descriptions and art, etc). Researchers came to the determination that these ‘foxtail’ feathers are very likely these same hackle plumes in use in the period (and still today). 

They would ultimately be destined for use by the indigenous people as decoration / status symbols, and fit with the military theme of some other decorative items we know were traded this way ( like brass braid/lace, officer’s epaulettes, gorgets, and more ).

Some of the paintings from a period close to the period Fort William portrays show what they think are likely these ‘foxtail’ feathers in use – as you can see two of the paintings depict the green bottoms/red tops. Another seems to show a yellow one hackle and another from the same artist shows military officers with their hackle plumes (red/white, and red), painted in a similar way to the others, lending further credence to the idea they are one and the same item.  The black hackle plume the have also commissioned comes from written North West Company inventories where the colour is indicated.

We proudly recreated a new set of hackles for the Fort William historic site to replicate the trade hackles as worn by indigenous people across North America in the 18th and 19th centuries and supplied by the North West Company.

Bespoke Feather Hackle Projects

Our regimental feather hackles and plumes are all made in the UK to Ministry of Defence standards. Perfect for your glengarry, Balmoral or Tam O Shanter. As supplied to the Highland regiments and British army and hand made using high quality feathers which comply with the rigorous Ministry of Defence requirements in the UK.

We can also offer bespoke regimental feather hackles. As supplied to pipe bands, re-enactors, film and theatre, why not email us with your requirements – Minimum quantity applies to special order pattern hackles. Email to discuss your requirements.